Interview & Backstage: Onitsuka Tiger x Andrea Pompilio, Jus Vun Tokyo photographer

EXCLUSIVE

TAKING ON THE TIGER.

Milanese designer Andrea Pompilio recently collaborated with Onistuka Tiger to create a refreshingly bright and elegant capsule collection for the legendary Japanese shoe label. We spoke to him about the collection, about his evolution as a designer and his creative inspirations.

JV: Tell us a bit about your upbringing and childhood and also your personal life. What do you enjoy in your free time?
AP: I grew up in very artistic surroundings. My mother was interested in paintings and my father was an architect, so I always got a feel for aesthetics and beauty. I used to spend a lot of time at my grandmother’s shop, a small fashion boutique in my hometown of Pesaro. From that, at a very early age, came the idea of becoming a fashion designer. After that dream became a reality, I travelled the world and lived in many different places, before eventually settling down in Milan and starting my own brand. Honestly, I don’t have much free time. I’m always on a plane or on a train, but I love being on the move; that’s my biggest source of energy and inspiration.

JV: You studied in Italy and worked for some of the most important Italian and international fashion and luxury brands, such as Alessandro Dell’Acqua, Prada, Calvin Klein and Yves Saint Lauren. Tell us about your experiences working for those fashion houses and the influences you have had.
AP: They were all amazing experiences, from Prada’s conceptual minimalism to minimalism with a commercial attitude at Calvin Klein, to the maximalism of Yves Saint Laurent in its Tom Ford version.
Each of these brands gave me so much, just as I gave much to all of them. Now that I have my own brand, I can consider what I create as the result of an expertise built during the last 20 years, and I keep getting inspiration from these jobs and life experiences, deeply connected to the cities I used to live in.

JV:How do you think you’ve evolved as a designer since your debut collection in 2010?
AP: I certainly evolved as a designer, but most of all as an entrepreneur. I had to make a transition from being “just” a creative, to being both things and to face the challenge of building a company. For a creative to set up his own business involves obstacles that test you every day. But I’m happy to be the main protagonist in my own life, and also in my work.

JV: How did the idea of the collaboration between Onitsuka Tiger, one of Japan’s oldest shoe companies, come to fruition? What specifically was the inspiration for your SS15 collection with Onitsuka Tiger? Any favourite pieces?
AP: They got in touch with me to design an iconic sneaker. Of course, I was extremely pleased given my great admiration and respect for such a legendary brand! After the success of that first collaboration I ended up designing an entire capsule collection for them, and we started this co-branding adventure.
The SS15 collection is an energetic collection, which takes elements from both ancient history (the sandals of roman gladiators, for instance, transformed into iconic cut-out sneakers) and contemporary times and melt them together into a cutting-edge sporty proposition. It has strong tribal vibes, with many African elements and a visually striking effect. It’s hard to pick a break-away piece.

JV: You mentioned that travelling has inspired you immensely with your creations. Which country was the most interesting, how many countries have you travelled to and where would you like to go next?
AP: I’m in love with Japan and I’m very attached to the country on a personal level. I honestly wouldn’t know how many countries I’ve been to…! Certainly a very good amount! I’ve never been to Australia though and I’d love to go.

JV: Your mother and father being both an architect and painter respectively and your grandmother working in a fashion boutique has certainly influenced your decision to pursue a career in fashion design at a young age. What else have they taught you about life?
AP: Apart from educating me a lot on a stylistic and cultural level, they always supported my choices in life. They taught me to be curious, proactive and work hard to achieve my goals.

JV: What have been your biggest struggles and successes so far in your career? How did you get past your struggles and how do you keep motivated?
AP: Fortunately, I never had a proper downturn in my career. Launching my own label was surely a big step, it wasn’t all easy at first. But being able to stand out independently was also my biggest success. After all, new challenges and new projects are what really keeps me motivated.

JV: Your collaboration with Onitsuka tiger is mainly focused on sporty outerwear. Do you have any plans to collaborate with other designers or artists in the near future? You also mentioned you would love to collaborate with Junya Watanabe, can you elaborate?
I don’t have anything like that coming up next, I’m happy to devote my energies to Onitsuka Tiger, besides my own brand and Canali. I’m super busy already, but never say never to new projects! I love Junya Watanabe because he always has something interesting to say with his clothes, he has a unique point of view and a true personality.

JV: What do you personally like to wear? What is your fashion essential?
AP: A white t-shirt/shirt or a pair of jeans. That’s my uniform. As a designer, I would definitely say a jacket or some piece of outerwear instead; which would be a winter coat, a trench or a bomber jacket.

JV: Where do you think the next fashion capital will emerge?
AP: I would say somewhere in Asia. Tokyo is already a rising star, there’s a real buzz there and I’ve seen very exciting things.

JV: Advice for young fashion designers? Dos and Donts.
AP: Do take this job seriously; do learn to control emotions and a have thick skin. Do have a cultural curiosity. Do have the will to learn before claiming to be creative. Don’t rush things and don’t think it’s all going to be easy.

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Interview: Atsushi Nakashima Tokyo Fashion Week SS15 / Jus Vun: photographer in Tokyo, Japan

Photgraphy and Interview by Jus Vun.

JV: Tell us about your roots in fashion and your experience working in Paris.

AN: After graduating from Nagoya Fashion College in 2001, I entered New Lead Factory as a pattern maker. I participated in the 20th Onward Fashion Grand Prix and one of the judges was J.P. Gaultier. I made a really simple collection and I hoped to impress the judges by using my haute couture technique. At the time, I thought I would either fail completely or win the prize and fortunately, the latter happened. That's how I was scouted and hired by J.P Gaultier himself to be his assistant.

JV: What were some of your struggles back then?

AN: In 2004, I moved to Paris to work for Mr. Gaultier and at the time I couldn't speak French. During my first four years, I started out by helping out with his bag and clothing collections and after that, I moved on to being in charge completely of his diffusion clothing line. I was a bit lacklustre with my French language studies; I started not showing up to my French classes but JP Gaultier found out and he was not happy to say the least. I eventually I picked up the language so I have to thank him for setting me straight.

JV: What was it like working for J.P. Gaultier?

AN: He's passionate, energetic and dedicated to his work. On top of that, he is a really sweet person.

JV: Your debut collection focused on lines and geometry but you moved away from that until SS14’s Geometry collection. In your latest SS15 Broken collection, you continued with geometric themes which is becoming somewhat of your trademark. What additional elements have you added to the SS15 collection and how have you evolved as a designer since your first collection?

AN: Actually, the underlying concept of geometry has always been a central theme of my brand but in some collections it was very subtle hence it was less obvious and noticeable. I am really inspired by the patterns that nature creates (the Fibonacci sequence). For example, the lines and seams on my dresses look like it's designed that way but it's more that the seams are necessary and as a result it forms that shape.

JV: Your mastery and attention to pattern-making and construction is highly regarded. What else do you think should be a central focus in designing a collection?

AN: Construction, stitching, quality. I was originally a pattern-maker working in a factory. In Europe, pattern-makers and designers work in different departments thus the communication between the departments can be inconsistent and some information gets lost along the way. Initially, I wanted to create a uniformity with my collections between pattern-making and design so I try to do everything on my own from scratch. Since that time, I have trained my crew how to draft patterns the way I like so I don't have to do it anymore.

JV: What are your thoughts on avant-gardism? Do you consider your collection experimental and innovative and pushing the boundaries of the norm?

AN: Yes, but it's a lot more subtle now. I've done enough conceptual work so now I am moving on to more ready-to-wear collections.

JV: Any opinions on the fashion industry (the consumers, designers and business) in Japan as compared to France? What would you like to see change in either country?

AN: Europeans appreciate creativity but in Japan it's more about “kawaii” (cute) culture. European design is more focused on cultural references but Japan denies culture and history and anything new is appreciated without background context. When I was in Europe, I was influenced by costumes so I can appreciate that difference more.

JV: You have stated before that your early influences were Rei Kawakubo. Have you ever had a chance to meet her?

AN: Prior to working for Mr. Gaultier, I was into Commes des Garcons. If I hadn't worked for him, I might have been doing something more similar in line with what Ms.Kawakubo did. I have never met her in person but I was patternmaking for her clothing line while working in the factory.

JV: Neoclassicism is a central focus of your inspiration and creation. What are some other sources of inspiration for you?

AN: My travels in Europe, Gaudi architecture, Art-Nouveau philosophy and art.

JV: Where do you see the brand in the future? You have said you would like to show your collection in Paris within the next few years.

AN: Yes, hopefully in two or three years.

JV: What’s your best piece of advice for young fashion designers?

AN: Learn from the past. If I were born in a different era, I wouldn't be creating the same collections I am now. It's important to reference history, art, fashion and architecture and then make minor changes, remixing and adding your personality to your designs.

Special thanks to Mariko Aoki for translating

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Interview: Dress Undressed Tokyo Fashion Week SS15 / Jus Vun : photographer in Tokyo

Photos and Interview by Jus Vun.

J V: Tell us about how you got started in fashion? How did you two start collaborating?

TK: The story of how we started to work in fashion started when we opened the CANDY boutique. We worked together there as the launching director and buyer back in 2006 in Tokyo. It was the first opportunity for us to work together. We didn’t actually meet through fashion, rather it was the music and culture surrounding fashion.

JV: Your collections have evolved from the fetish-inspired FW127's HOMUNCULUS collection, to the androgynous looks of your more recent collections. Tell us about the inspiration for SS15's INTELLIGENCE collection.

TK : Our brand’s concept is the integration of two-sidedness. For example, masculinity and femininity, high fashion and street style, light and shadow. There is no border between them – it is a fusion of various elements. The border that we set is ever-changing. The fabric, design and concept of our collection is unisex, but the pattern is different between men’s and women’s because their bodies are different.

SS2015’s is INTELLIGENCE, and the images are sourced from museums, art pieces, and scientific resources. We proposed the style of past juxtaposed against modern, layering various materials. At the beginning of the collection, we imaged a scientist and scholar, so the long coat, which is associated with the white lab coat is layered with various materials.

In the middle of the show, we made a shirt inspired by a statue with the texture of skin, inspired by art pieces and museums. We styled a drawing shirt layered with an oversized t-shirt and tank, so the drawing would appear gradually. In the latter half of the show, we imagined classical music. We showed men’s tailored jackets and smoking jackets for women. CLOSELOOK was inspired by art pieces and scientific resources. We used netting hand-stitched over trousers.

As a new trial of DRESSEDUNDRESSED, this season, we used processing material which was based on women’s fabric so that we could emphasise genderless style. For example, the item in LOOK3.4.20 is made by coated Russell mesh knit. So the surface of the fabric is manly, yet the inside is feminine. The MA-1 Jacket in LOOK9.23is not only used delicate feminine siphon, but also put manly military material together inside.

JV: A number of influential designers have blurred the lines of the gender divide. From YSL's iconic "Le Smoking" photograph by Helmut Newton, Japanese avant-garde legend Rei Kawakubo, to a new breed of designers such as Rad Hourani and Dries Van Noten, the ambiguity of sexual and physical attributes are in continual evolution. How do you see this evolving in the future?

TK: Worldwide, socially, and ideologically, the equality of men and women is common and natural. In fashion, we think liberal choice that do not make a distinction between the sexes will be become more and more popular. As a designer, we have to propose a new model of man and woman with as human beings advance.

JV: Tell us about your collaboration with Mykita and do you have plans to work together with other European designers in future?

TK: Eyewear was a key item to express the character of our womenswear. It has a cute side different from others – not too serious or overly sophisticated. MYKITA made that eyewear for SS15 collection specially. We are very grateful for their support. Also, the shoes were a collaboration with GEORGE COX in England. This season SS15, we made new leather sneakers. The collaboration started from SS2015, so it is going to be seventh season. We are looking forward to collaborate more actively with various creators (not only in Europe) in the future.

JV: How would you compare Japanese designers to that of their European or American counterparts?

TK: We can connect all over the world through the Internet these days, so we would like to help create a new image for Japanese designers. For example, we would like to express Japanese minimalism, caring about something invisible, care with portion and consideration to detail.

JV: Where do you see the brand in the future?

TK: We would like to increase the chance of representing not only as a runway show. In addition, we are interested in doing something outside of the fashion industry.

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